Accommodation in Florence
The key to finding suitable housing in Florence is to determine what sort of lifestyle you prefer. Keep in mind that Florence is a relatively compact city, especially if you wish to live in the Centro Storico or historic centre, i.e. within the old city walls, however it is rife with traffic and mobility problems.
It would be a good idea to live in an area that makes the commute to work as easy as possible. Downtown Florence is all but closed to non-resident traffic, and the public transportation system leaves much to be desired - most often the only expedient way to get around is on foot or bicycle and even that can prove challenging at times!
Generally speaking, downtown Florence comprises the area just south of Piazza della Libertà and stretching down to cross the Arno River, ending at the Porta Romana, and bounded on the east and west by busy main thoroughfares, or viali. Think of the Duomo as 'ground zero,' or the epicentre of this Renaissance city.
Living in the historic centre can certainly be thrilling if your wish is to be close to all the monuments, museums, boutiques and a high density of pubs, eateries and cafés. However, it is horrifyingly touristy - with great groups of package-tourists clogging the squares and narrow streets all day long, creating a Disneyworld effect. As a result of this constant onslaught, restaurants downtown tend to cater to the lowest common gastronomic denominator and are terribly expensive for the mediocre fare served. Shopkeepers tend to be indifferent and basic daily needs like a litre of milk are often difficult to come by - the mom-and-pop stores having been long-ago replaced by the more lucrative outlets of high fashion.
Another disconcerting element of downtown life is the noise of drunken Italian and international university students (Florence abounds in these) stumbling through the streets in the wee hours. It often seems like the 'real' residents of Florence shun downtown, preferring to live outside the walls in the peripheral neighborhoods where the shops cater to one's day-to-day practical needs, where it is easier to get around, and where the hurly-burly of mass tourism is blissfully absent.
If one chooses to forgo housing in the city centre, many possibilities open themselves up - and again, lifestyle comes into play.
Families may appreciate living in the north-Florence area of Campo di Marte, where it is greener, well served by buses, with plenty of shops and a big playground and sports complex by the stadium. Another green area popular with families is the neighborhood around Piazza delle Cure, also on the north side, where there is a very nice playground called Area Pettini, and a number of public school options as well as lots of shops.
Also, the neighborhood surrounding the Horticulture Gardens (peaceful, with a nice playground) is a good family choice. The neighborhood of Rifredi, northeast of downtown, is more congested but has a train station that is handy for commuting into the city centre. More posh neighborhoods lie across the Arno, up in the hills with lovely views of the city: these are the area around Poggio Imperiale, and Bellosguardo. However, these neighborhoods are not well served by public transport and they are lacking in shops and amenities.
Having considered but a few of Florence's neighborhoods, it is worthwhile to note that nearly all of Florence's housing options are in apartment buildings. These palazzi vary in size and the number of units, of course, and some will come with balconies, small terraces, cellar storage units, or even garage space - for which you may count on paying extra. Not many buildings in Florence have elevators, but generally the air and light is better the higher the floor you're on. Housing ranges from old buildings to newer structures, and keep in mind that you're likely to get more space for your money the further you are from the historic centre.
Flats come in a variety of ways: completely empty (wherein you may have to put a kitchen and all major appliances such as washing machine and dishwasher, even light fixtures!); partially furnished, which means perhaps a kitchen and a major appliance or two; or completely furnished (i.e. with beds, armoires, sofa, dining table, etc).
Normal rental leases tend to be for long periods (usually four years minimum), however shorter leases are very common for foreigners who are in Florence for a short stint of work or study (one to two years) - but expect to pay more for these. It is wise to have a good look around your prospective flat with the landlord and/or leasing agent and note any repairs/improvements you want made before moving in. It is also wise to establish who is to handle and pay for any eventual repairs - for example, a non-working toilet or radiator. Italian landlords frequently expect tenants to foot the bill for all repairs and maintenance - something which many foreigners are justifiably loathe to do. So clarify your concerns and get any agreements in writing!
Rentals may be found through one of Florence's many real estate agencies. There are also frequent advertisements in the English-language newspaper, The Florentine (www.theflorentine.net).
Purchasing a house in Florence is not for the faint-hearted - it is a lengthy and expensive process. However, it may be slightly cheaper than paying rent if you're here for a long haul. Again, there are many real estate agents in town to choose from.
