Moving to Istanbul

The idea of moving to Istanbul conjures up romantic visions of the exotic east, of belly dancers and harems, of palaces and sultans, of mosques and minarets. But Istanbul is so much more than that.

It is also a vibrant, modern European city, home to many expats, where East and West mingle to create the unique whole that is peculiar to itself. Where Europe and Asia meet with only a narrow strait of water separating the two continental land masses. Where wide highways and fast cars meet narrow winding alleys and horse drawn carts. Where tall steel and glass skyscrapers sit cheek by jowl with historical buildings. Where both Eastern bazaars and Western style shopping malls offer a variety of goods for sale. Istanbul is truly a unique city straddling two continents.
 

Turkey is a predominantly Muslim country of approximately 75 million people. Over 99% of the population is Muslim. Istanbul has a significant minority of Jewish Turks compared to the rest of the country. The Constitution states that Turkey is a secular republic and the army is a fierce guardian of secularism in Turkey (For example, headscarves are banned in schools, colleges and government offices, and only civil marriages are recognized by law). 

Wandering down parts of Istanbul, Ankara, and some of the other Western Turkish Towns, you could be forgiven for thinking that you are in Europe, with chicly dressed westernized Turks being the norm. In other parts of town, the Islamic influence is much more clearly seen and headscarves are becoming more commonly worn. Headscarves are still banned in schools, universities and government offices. However there has been fierce debate over this issue in the last few years and the struggle between the secularists and the traditionalists continue. For all practical purposes, however, as an expat in Istanbul, you can safely wear western dress without fear of reprisal.
 

The Turks are a gentle and friendly lot who welcome foreigners (don’t be put off by the immigration officials at the airport!). The slightest effort to learn and speak Turkish on the part of expats will be highly appreciated. It must be borne in mind, however, that the flip side to this is that the Turks think that it is rude to say an outright ‘No’ if something is not possible. Instead you will get a roundabout explanation and until you get used to this, it can be confusing and frustrating not to get a straight answer. The Turks also have an unusual gesture for saying ‘No’. It is an upward flick of the head accompanied by a clicking of the tongue! One rarely ever hears the actual Turkish word for ‘No’ being used!