Culture Shock in Abu Dhabi

 

You knew you were moving to a Muslim country, but you weren't prepared for exactly what that means. One of the biggest differences living in Abu Dhabi is the five-times per day call to prayer. Most mosques are co-ordinated, so there isn't the competing, full-on sort of call that happens in other countries. But it is loud, and it does jerk you out of whatever else you were doing. The congregational prayer (salat) that happens each Friday at about noon is much longer and some people say louder. The prayer can be heard on the street, in homes, at work, on the radio and on television, even in malls. For newcomers, it can be a stark and repeated reminder of their new surroundings.

A word about choosing lodgings in this respect: a mosque right next door can make for some very early mornings. There will always be a mosque nearby, however, as this is Abu Dhabi, and for light sleepers, its call for the dawn prayer (azaan) can prove a too-early wakeup call.

 

 

It is crowded in Abu Dhabi, and the weekends are the worst. For this reason you may want to avoid malls and supermarkets on Fridays and Saturdays – they are busier than it seems possible. If you fail to heed this warning, you might find yourself boxed in by shopping carts in a massive queue at the Lulu Hypermarket fruit counter, hyperventilating and wondering how so many people are able to fit in one store and contemplating fleeing the scene. The city's buses, introduced in 2008, pass by almost comically crammed and during rush hour, the streets are choked with traffic. Taxi queues at malls stretch on for more than an hour. Even the movie theatres and the food shops on the Corniche are mobbed. The best way to deal with it is to either plan outings strategically (mornings are best) or just learn to breathe deeply and put up with it.

 

 

There is a unofficial social structure in Abu Dhabi, and Emiratis are at the top. So you might find yourself ordering ice cream or buying a pair of shoes, only to find an Emirati has jumped to the front of the line and commanded the cashier or server's attention. Or you've been waiting in the heat for 15 minutes for a taxi and when one stops, the person who arrived seconds ago sweeps into it. Emiratis were here first, everyone else came second, and that is the way it is. 

 

 

Do not be surprised if women do not want to sit by you, if you are a man. Conversely, men will sometimes move away from women, out of respect for them. This frequently happens in movie theatres and airplanes. Western women who do not cover their shoulders may find men turning away from them; it has been explained that this out of respect to the woman and not an act of judgement. Women or man, almost everyone will expect you to be married and will probably be quite surprised if you are not. 

 

 

A non-Muslim needs to be very careful during the holy month of Ramadan. In Abu Dhabi, most businesses and offices ban eating and drinking at desks – and smoking, even in smoking areas – out of respect to those colleagues who are fasting. Some set up special rooms where food and drink can be consumed. Bars and restaurants will open at night and serve alcohol, but usually will not play any music. It is extremely important to remember not to eat, drink or smoke when out on the street or in one's car: the police keep watch and have handed out fines for doing so. It is also good to remember that fasting colleagues – even those on the road during the drive home – could be growing increasingly tired and irritable as they have not eaten or had a drink all day. People frequently leave on mini-breaks during Ramadan. So it also bears keeping in mind that some more conservative destinations, such as Oman, ban alcohol altogether during this time.

 

 

It takes getting used to, particularly when coming from countries that have become very sensitive to the most mild forms of nationalism. But here, everyone differentiates themselves. Nationality must be stated for almost every transaction, even opening a bank account or obtaining a gym membership. Comments that would seem blatantly racist elsewhere are commonplace here: whether it is a taxi driver blaming other countries for producing bad drivers or a doctor muttering about the origin of his ineffectual staff. 

 

 

With so many foreigners coming from countries such as the Philippines, Bangledesh, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka to work so they can send money back to their families, an expat quickly realises life can be quite easy and for not a lot of money. This is strange to adjust to at first. There is VIP parking at hotels, malls, even hospitals; most stores deliver even the smallest orders. People who shouldn't be able to afford it have nannies and maids. Laundries pick up and drop off loads; people even hire others to wash their cars. Many offices employ men who are referred to as "tea boys"; they will serve hot and cold drinks, clear takeaway cartons, fetch change and even wash dishes brought from home. New expats often struggle with taking part in such a system and opt out; others take advantage but pay and tip extra in acknowledgement that the people who help them out are often supporting entire families at home. An unfortunate few who become expats in such a structure let the lifestyle change them, perhaps coming to believe they are better than others and visibly failing to treat them with the respect they deserve. 

 

 

Drinking alcohol is illegal in Abu Dhabi. Westerners must obtain an alcohol license through Abu Dhabi Police. It costs a percentage of one's salary, puts a limit on how much alcohol one can buy and is valid for one year. Although it is possible to buy alcohol without a license at some shops, expats should not do it. Nor should they carry alcohol on the street or transport it in their cars, as they can be arrested in the case of an accident or if they are stopped by police. Bars are tucked away from the streets in hotels; public drunkenness is not allowed and could lead to an arrest.