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The best places to live in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a city with a unique character and atmosphere that is reflected in its various areas and suburbs, known as barrios. Each barrio is shaped by its history, culture and community. Recoleta is known for its elegant architecture and affluent residents, and San Telmo is renowned for its lively street life, tango culture and antique markets. Palermo is a popular barrio for its trendy restaurants, bars and nightlife, as well as its parks and green spaces. Belgrano is a residential barrio popular among families and retirees for its quiet streets, tree-lined avenues and proximity to public transport.
When considering where to live in Buenos Aires, expats should take into account their preferences, budget and proximity to work, schools and amenities. Living in the city centre may be more convenient for those who work in the financial or commercial districts, but it can also be more expensive and noisy. On the other hand, living in the suburbs may offer a more relaxed and affordable way of life, with access to parks, shops and schools. The city’s efficient transport network, which includes buses, subways and trains, makes it easy to travel to different parts of the city, even from the suburbs.
Below is a list of some of the most popular areas for newcomers in Buenos Aires.
Lifestyle in Buenos Aires
Working in Buenos Aires
Getting Around in Buenos Aires
Family-friendly areas in Buenos Aires
Belgrano
Named after Manuel Belgrano, the creator of the Argentinian flag, Belgrano in Buenos Aires is a peaceful oasis in the heart of the busy capital. This large barrio is home to several lush green parks and gardens, including the peaceful Barrancas de Belgrano. Belgrano also boasts a strong British influence, with many Victorian-era homes. In addition to its calm surroundings, the barrio is also known for its excellent restaurant and café scene, particularly in the commercial areas of Belgrano C and Belgrano R. The sidewalks in Belgrano are lined with restaurants and cafés, particularly in the more commercial areas. There are also plenty of football clubs and tennis courts in the area.
Palermo
The largest barrio in Buenos Aires, Palermo is a lively and fashionable area with something for everyone. From the peaceful Japanese Garden to the energetic Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood districts, there is always something to see and do in Palermo. The barrio is also home to several world-class museums and galleries, including the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) and the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo.
Palermo is one of the more expensive barrios in Buenos Aires, but its beautiful parks and gardens make it a popular choice for families. There is plenty of housing available for rental or purchase in Palermo because of its size, so this is a good place to start your search for a home.
Caballito
Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, Caballito is a lively and affordable barrio with plenty of character. Those living in the area will find that most parts of the city are easily accessible. The primary attraction of Caballito is that it’s a lot cheaper than places like Palermo, it’s full of character, and isn’t too far from the action. All in all, it’s great value for money.
The barrio also boasts some of the city’s most popular museums and galleries. Caballito is also known for its beautiful parks and plazas, including the expansive Parque Centenario and the picturesque Plaza Irlanda. Those living in the surrounding apartments will therefore still be able to get their fill of the great outdoors.
Puerto Madero
Once a port, Puerto Madero wasn’t always a desirable area of Buenos Aires. After the old warehouses were revamped into trendy apartments, the entire district underwent a significant change. Nowadays, Puerto Madero is one of the most modern and sought-after areas in Buenos Aires, and it’s a perfect place for families. The area is also known to be the most Westernised area of the city, with American restaurants and shops dotted around the suburb. The area’s proximity to the central business district makes it an attractive place to live for those working in finance and government sectors.
You can rent or purchase a high-rise apartment overlooking the river and enjoy the beauty of the docks and nature reserve. Puerto Madero has a selection of outdoor venues for summer concerts. Residents can walk along the boardwalk and enjoy cafés right on the river with the best views Buenos Aires has to offer.
Recoleta
Those who live in Recoleta will see why Buenos Aires is known as the ‘Paris of the South’. With its Parisian architecture, cafés and restaurants, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in Europe rather than South America. Recoleta is one of the most upscale and pricey barrios in Buenos Aires, boasting plenty of green open spaces, high-end restaurants and buzzing nightlife.
You’ll find high-standard accommodation in Recoleta, but it comes at a cost. With plenty of space in the barrio, those who prefer a garden can opt for a house, while apartments with nearby parks are available for others. Recoleta is not too far from the downtown area of Buenos Aires, so it’s perfect for those who want to live somewhere more peaceful while still having access to the action.
San Isidro
San Isidro is ideal if you’re looking for a serene living environment outside the city. Located a bit more than half an hour away by train from Buenos Aires, this exclusive barrio boasts proximity to the Tigre Delta and various upmarket amenities, such as sailing clubs. That said, the area’s exclusivity comes at a high cost, and those who choose to reside here should budget accordingly for a large stately home.
Education and Schools in Buenos Aires
Accommodation in Buenos Aires
Areas for young professional expats in Buenos Aires
Las Cañitas
For expats who want a quiet daytime atmosphere that transforms into a lively nightlife, Las Cañitas could be the perfect place. During the day, its narrow streets are mostly traffic-free, but at night, the area comes to life with a wide variety of entertainment options.
As a subdivision of Palermo, Las Cañitas is known for being one of the safest areas in Buenos Aires, with its well-maintained streets and proximity to the Campo Argentino de Polo. There are many upmarket and antique shops in this area, as well as a diverse selection of bars and restaurants. There is also a large shopping centre that caters for every need. Those living in Las Cañitas will have plenty of options for entertainment and leisure.
Plaza San Martín
Plaza San Martín is the ‘downtown’ area of Buenos Aires. While it may not be the most residential barrio, those who choose to live here will be fascinated by its rich history. Many of Buenos Aires’ most significant historical sites and monuments are located in this part of the city. This barrio is also home to Florida Street, a famous pedestrian shopping street in Buenos Aires. Owing to its popularity as a tourist destination, prices in this area may be higher than in other parts of the city.
San Telmo
San Telmo, one of the older and more traditional barrios of Buenos Aires, is characterised by its Bohemian atmosphere and the abundance of markets and antique shops. Although high-rise apartments are scarce in the area, you can still find quality accommodation in colonial-style houses along the cobblestoned streets.
On weekends, San Telmo becomes one of the city’s most energetic nightlife spots, and the local bars and tango hotspots draw crowds from all over Buenos Aires. It’s an exciting place to call home, but the area sees increased foot traffic and street activity, which can lead to petty crime like pickpocketing.
Villa Crespo
Villa Crespo is also well known for its Bohemian atmosphere and attracts many young newcomers. It is right on the border of the Palermo barrio, and those living in Villa Crespo are just a short walk or taxi ride away from several parks and wooded areas. There are also plenty of bars and restaurants in the suburb for residents to enjoy, as well as some unique galleries and art installations.
Areas to avoid in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is generally safe for residents and visitors who take sensible precautions, but certain areas call for extra caution, particularly after dark. La Boca, famous for its colourful Caminito street and football stadium, can be problematic outside the main tourist zones.
Constitución, around the main railway station, tends to be crowded and has pickpocketing issues, particularly during rush hours. The area improves during business hours but becomes less safe at night. Similarly, parts of Once can be hectic and overwhelming, with street vendors and heavy pedestrian traffic creating opportunities for petty theft.
Villa 31 (officially called Barrio Padre Mugica), located near the Retiro train station, is a large informal settlement that visitors and new residents should avoid. The contrast between this area and the surrounding affluent neighbourhoods makes visitors particularly conspicuous.
What areas in Buenos Aires do expats recommend?
"There are many gated communities in the northern suburbs that are nice, which provide more safety and security and appeal to expats."
Read about Maggie's experiences in her expat interview on Buenos Aires.
"Look for apartments in areas like Palermo (the biggest and most popular area for expats), Recoleta, Almagro or Belgrano."
Read Rebecca's expat interview on living in Buenos Aires.
Further reading
►For more on buying or renting housing in the city, see Accommodation in Buenos Aires
Photo credits: Recoleta Cemetery by Camila Ferrari, San Trelmo by Sam Andreatta, both from Unsplash.
Are you an expat living in Buenos Aires?
Expat Arrivals is looking for locals to contribute to this guide, and answer forum questions from others planning their move to Buenos Aires. Please contact us if you'd like to contribute, or fill in our expat interview form to be featured.
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